When we were planning our trip to Thailand in December, I agonized over whether to stay at the Four Seasons or the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai. After hours of Internet research, no clear "winner" had emerged. The Four Seasons has provided spectacular service, beautiful grounds and spacious rooms everywhere we've stayed, and by all accounts, the Four Seasons Chiang Mai meets the same high-quality standards. However, the descriptions of the Mandarin Oriental recreating Thai history through its architecture and featuring one of the "coolest pools ever" ultimately swayed our vote.
From the minute we arrived at Dhara Dhevi, the experience surpassed our expectations. The entrance was dramatic, yet classy (we didn't at all get the Disneyland vibe that others complained of). We were upgraded to an extremely spacious villa that was designed in the traditional Thai teak style (with the bedroom and most of the living area on the second floor). The lower level featured an outdoor kitchen and dining area, a hammock, and an indoor living area with a TV. Upstairs, the bedroom was spacious and elegant, with a comfortable pillow top bed and a mosquito net. The windows could be opened wide to bring in lots of fresh air. The bathroom had double sinks and opened onto a back patio with an outdoor shower and an enormous jacuzzi - which got a lot of use after a long day of elephant riding!
Our evening turn-down service was always accompanied with a small gift and a story about Thailand's history. One night we got a candle, and another night we received an adorable elephant Christmas ornament that will forever have a spot on our tree!
As incredible as the room was, the grounds were equally spectacular. The hotel is build on a real, working rice paddy - which you walk across on bridges to get to the front lobby. There are two pools, but our favorite by far was the infinity pool that overlooked the rice paddies. There is also an added bonus of a hot tub and lounge chair service at this pool. If you stay at the Dhara Devi, you really need to take some time to explore the vast grounds. The cocktails and trendy atmosphere in the Horn Bar are great, and Le Grand Lanna serves up excellent, freshly prepared Thai fare and evening entertainment. The buffet breakfast is expensive but offers a wide variety of selections. And I think we drank our money's worth in fresh-squeezed orange juice! We also enrolled in the hotel's culinary school (a must in Thailand), which included a trip to the local produce market and a half-day of cooking lessons.
We've heard that the Four Seasons is similar to the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, so I'm sure it's a wonderful experience as well. However, the Dhara Dhevi easily ranks among the top two or three hotels we've ever been to, and is truly a magical place. If you're planning a trip to Chiang Mai, it's a must!
A&T Ranking: 10/10
